Homewerx Home Inspection in Mesa, AZ

Category: Owning a Home

  • Say Hello to Termite Season

    Say hello to termite breeding season.  That’s right, with the beginning of the new year we also begin the time of year where termite activity increases.  According to the US Department of Agriculture, over $750 million in damage is caused by termites each year.  That’s a lot of bugs. The good news is there are some easy things homeowners can do to help avoid these costly pests.

    According to the Arizona Structural Pest Control Commission, the most common termite in Arizona is the subterranean termite.  Therefore, a good barrier between the ground and the wood in our homes is extremely important.  Here is a list of things that homeowners should look for (source: Arizona Structural Pest Control Commission).  Although this list is not all inclusive, it will give you a good place to start.

    1. Cracks in foundation walls.  It only takes a crack 1/32 of an inch wide to give termites and other wood destroying insects hidden access to a house.
    2. Leaking pipes and faucets.  Termites as well as other insects, seek out moisture for survival. Leaking pipes can keep wood and soil continually damp and create a perfect home for termites.
    3. Wood debris around and under a house.  Pieces of scrap lumber or firewood kept next to a structure can support a colony of termites.
    4. Sprinkler systems or bubblers placed near the outside wall of a structure.  Excessive watering can dilute pesticide treatments around foundation walls.
    5. Flower planters. Planters allow hidden and direct access to unprotected siding and cracked stucco when built in direct contact with a house.
    6. Trellises and wooden fences.  If a trellis or wood fence touches soil and is in contact with a structure, it provides a direct link between the subterranean termites in the soil and wood in the structure.

    All of these conditions are things that termites and termite inspectors look for, and so should the homeowner.  By eliminating these conditions, you can reduce the risk of infestation.  However, it is important to remember that all homes are at risk to termite infestation, even masonry structures.  See MPEG movie of termites (Source: Arizona Structural Pest Control Commission)

    If you have any concerns, be sure to call a professional to check it out before that termite takes a bite out of your house and your wallet.

  • Construction Flaws Eventually Lead to Roof Failure

    What can you do with the equity in your home?  Re-model the kitchen or bathroom?  Re-surface the pool and add a rock water fall and BBQ?  Or, remove the tiles on the roof, replace the felt paper and batons completely, and add the flashings that the original roofer failed to install which is why you had to jimmy rig three five gallon buckets in the attic to catch the rain water that is entering between the sheathing and staining the kitchen and living room ceilings.  Breathe…….Unfortunately this happened.

    The original homeowners purchased this home new, ten short years ago and now have to replace most or all of the underlayment on their roof.  The roof had several construction flaws that led to its failure (see pictures below).  Most of these flaws allowed storm water to get under the tiles and onto the felt paper.  As water runs under the tiles, it runs into thin wood pieces called batons.  These batons are what the tiles are nailed to and run horizontally across the span of the roof with gaps every few feet to allow water to slip between, should any water enter.  The batons expel the water horizontally which affects additional material and instead of a small area between the leak and the bottom of the roof, you now have a large area that can be affected by one small leak.  So instead of paying off the car and taking a cruise through the Caribbean, the homeowner is going to spend thousands of dollars and their home will look just as it did ten years ago.

    This is just another example of why it’s so important to have a Construction Inspection!  We will inspect your new home as it’s being built and after it’s complete, helping to eliminate hidden surprises like the one described above.  A Warranty Inspection can also help to find problems before your new home warranty expires.

    Roof Problems Caused By Construction Flaws

    Homewerx offers several different types of inspections to help buyers, sellers and homeowners.  Call to schedule your home inspection today!

    (480) 503-2611

    or 1-888-THE-WERX

    …or schedule online!

    Because an ounce of inspection is worth a pound of repair!

  • Plumbing System Maintenance

    It is important for every one in the family to become familiar with the different controls that operate your home’s plumbing system.  In the event of a major plumbing leak, knowing the location and proper operation of these controls may save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars in damage to your home and personal property.  The following are a few suggestions on how to prevent damage to these systems and reduce the costs involved should a leak occur. 
       
    1.   Know the location of the main water valve. 
    This valve controls the supply of water to the entire house.  It is usually located near the front of the house under the hose bib.  This valve should be operated at least once a year to prevent the valve from getting clogged or stuck from mineral deposits.  Mineral build up can make the valve difficult to turn and in severe cases, the handle can break off and/or leak.  If this happens, the valve would need to be replaced.  This situation can occur even in homes with water conditioning systems because this valve is located between the city/well and the water-conditioning unit.
       
    2.   Know the location of the isolation valves.
    Isolation valves are located between the main valve and various plumbing fixtures.  For example, under the kitchen sink there are two isolation valves; one for the hot and one for the cold water supply line to the faucet.  These valves also need to be operated once a year to insure proper operation.  Isolation valves are often low quality and can break easily, so care should be taken when opening or closing a valve that has not been operated in a several years.

    3.   Properly maintain drain pipes.
    There are many ways to keep your drains open and working properly.  The best way is to be conscious of what you put into your drain.  Never pour hot grease or other things that tend to solidify at room temperature down your drain.  Harsh chemical cleaners should be avoided because they are rarely effective in cleaning your pipes and pose a hazard if and when repairs are made.  They can also damage the surface of many pipes and plumbing fixtures.  A few pots of boiling water down the drain every month will help protect the environment and work just as well. 

    4.  Replace washing machine hoses.
    It is wise to replace the hoses to the washing machine every 3 to 5 years.  This is an often neglected and weak link in the plumbing system.  The constant pressure on these rubber hoses will eventually cause them to burst.  If this should happen while at work or even worse when your out of town, the expense could be enormous.  It only takes a few minutes and for under $15, is worth every penny.

    If you have any questions or concerns, contact a professional.

  • Taking Care of Your Swimming Pool

    The following is a short list of items that need regular attention to help keep your pool in good working order.  Please remember that no two pools are alike and this list is not intended to address every problem that may arise.  Swimming pools can present many different problems based on a number of factors.  The age of the pool, water quality/chemistry and the age & type of the mechanical systems all play a roll in the frequency, type and expense of maintenance required.  If you are unsure of anything, consult a pool service professional.  The sooner you address a problem, the less it will cost to remedy.

    Diagram of a Pool Pump If you are new to pool ownership, become familiar with your pool and its equipment.  (Parts of a Pool Pump:  1. Filter,  2. Timer Control Box,  3. Primary Leaf Catcher for Pool Filter  4. Pressure Gauge & Air Bleeder Valve  5. Back Wash Valve  6. Primary Leaf Catcher for Jacuzzi).

    In the event your pool has just been built, your pool contractor will show you all of the systems and how to operate them.  However, if you have purchased a home with an existing pool, have the sellers explain the system and what they have been doing to maintain the pool.  They may not have been doing it correctly, but it will give the service professional a place to start if anything is wrong and needs correction.  Items you should be familiar with:  Skimmers and Leaf Catchers, Timers and Valves, Heater(s), In-Pool Vacuum, Water Shutoff, Electrical Circuit Disconnects

    Regular Maintenance:
    Circulation:   The circulation pump needs to be run every day.  However, the length of time depends on the size of the pool, the type of filter, the time of year and the number of swimmers.  The best way to determine how long to circulate the pool is to start at 3 or 4 hours a day and increase the time as needed until the water is clear.
    Filter:   The filter needs to be cleaned regularly to work properly.  Cartridge filters can be cleaned by hand while sand and DE filters need to be backwashed.  If your filter has a pressure gage, it should be monitored to determine when cleaning is necessary.
    Skimmer and Leaf Catchers:   Remove any debris from the skimmer and primary leaf catcher to maintain proper water flow through the filter.  If air gets into the plumbing system when cleaning the primary leaf catcher, bleed air from the system through the air bleeder valve on top of the filter.
    Water Level:   The circulation pump and filter will not work properly if the correct water level is not maintained.  If your pool has an automatic fill valve, it should be adjusted to the correct level (3 to 4 inches above the bottom of the tiles).  If not, the water level will need to be maintained by hand.
    Clean:   The sides and bottom of the pool should be brushed several times per week to keep them free of dirt and debris.  Remember that you cannot brush your pool too much!
    Test:   Test the PH level and chlorine every day until you get a correct reading for three days in a row.  After that, test weekly at a minimum; more often if your pool gets heavy use.
    Add Chemicals:  Always read the labels on pool chemicals and store them accordingly. Mishandling can result in an explosion or other injury.  Follow directions and recommendations on the label when adding chemicals to the pool.
    Shock:   The water needs to be shocked regularly to disinfect the water, kill algae, bacteria, other organisms and oxidize wastes.  After shocking your pool, test the chemical levels and be sure that they have returned to normal before swimming.
    Vacuum:   Visually inspect the vacuum and hose for broken or worn out parts.  Also, clean any debris that has gotten caught in the vacuum and observe that it is functioning properly.

    Remember:  If you have any questions, contact a professional.

    And ALWAYS supervise children around water!!!

  • Help Your Water Heater Last for Years to Come

    As with all household appliances, water heaters need regular maintenance.  You should consult your owner’s manual for warnings and guidance before attempting service or repair.  If you do not have a manual, you should be able to obtain one by calling or writing to the manufacturer.  You may even be able to request one on the internet.  Since our directions are very general, if any of the instructions in your Owner’s Manual or on the unit itself are different in any way than what you read here, follow your manufacturer’s guidance!

    The frequency of servicing needed is dependent upon a number of things, such as: the age and type of the unit, the hardness of the water (the amount of minerals dissolved in the water) and whether or not you have a water softening system.  At a minimum, check out your water heater at least once a year.  Listed below are some things you can probably do yourself.  However, if you feel uncertain about performing any of these steps yourself, we highly recommend that you contact a professional.

    Pressure Relief Valve – Manually operate the valve to make sure it is not seized (see pictures below for location).  Just move it up and down a few times and be sure it returns to its original position.  Also, listen for the sound of running water and check to see that it is draining either to a floor drain, or ultimately to the outside of the building (by way of the Pressure Relief Drain Pipe).

    Electric Water Heater PictureElectric Water Heaters – (1. Electrical connection, 2. Pressure Relief Valve, 3. Drain Cock, 4. Water Inlet Valve, 5. Pressure Relief Drain Pipe)  Prior to draining, the electricity needs to be shut off so the heating element does not burn out.  Determine which circuit breaker controls the unit’s power and move it to the off position.  Look at the electrical connection at the top of the water heater for loose or frayed wires. Remember, if the wires don’t look right, have an electrician check it out!  Follow the steps below for draining and refilling tank. 

    Gas Water Heater PictureGas Water Heaters – (1. Pressure Relief Valve, 2. Pressure Relief Drain Pipe, 3. Pilot Light & Combustion Area, 4. Water Inlet Valve, 5. Flue, 6. Gas Control Valve,
    7. Drain Cock)      Prior to draining, clean the air passages to the burner.  To do this, you must first shut off the gas by following the instructions on the unit.  Then remove the access cover to the pilot light and burner area.  Any dirt or debris should be removed.  Also, observe the top of the water heater to be sure that the exhaust flue is secure and nothing is blocking airflow.  Gas water heaters should be installed at least 18 inches above the ground.  BE SURE NO FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCES ARE STORED IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE UNIT.  Follow the steps below for draining and refilling tank.

    Draining and Refilling the Water Heater Tank – It is important to drain the tank to remove any sediment and/or sludge from the bottom of the tank. After completing the steps above, turn off the water inlet valve (usually on the pipes at the top of the tank…REMEMBER – Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty!)  Then connect a garden hose to the drain cock at the bottom of the tank.  Turn the drain cock to the left and let the tank drain. Next, close the drain cock, disconnect the hose and turn the water inlet valve back on.  When you no longer hear the water running, the tank is full.  Now, turn the circuit breaker back on or for gas water heaters, light the pilot light by following the directions on the unit.  The flame should be blue in color.  If not, call the gas company.  They should check it for free.

    Be sure the temperature is set to avoid scalding, especially if there are children or elderly in the house!!  Check your Owner’s Manual or look on the water heater for guidance.

    These simple steps should help keep your water heater in good working order.   However, if you are unsure of anything, it’s always best to have your unit inspected and/or serviced by a professional.

  • Fireplace Safety

    When the weather begins to turn cooler, people start to crank up their fireplaces.  It is very relaxing to cozy up with a good book on a cold winter’s night and watch the fire.  However, before lighting your fireplace, you should check a few things to ensure the safety of your home and family.  It is important to know what type of fireplace you have and how to operate it properly.

    If you have recently purchased a home, it is important to have your fireplace and chimney inspected.  A defective or deteriorating firebox and chimney can be hazardous to the structure of your home, as well as to your family.  It is also wise to install a carbon monoxide detector in your home.  A fireplace that is not operating correctly can produce this toxic gas.  Be aware that the suggestions below are not intended to replace an inspection by a qualified inspector.

    There are two main types of built in-fireplaces:  masonry and metal insert.  Masonry fireplaces are built with bricks and mortar and have a metal or clay flue liner.  They are designed to burn anything from cordwood to gas logs.  Metal insert fireplaces, on the other hand, are just that.  A metal firebox is inserted into the framing of the house and a single or double-walled flue is extended through the siding or roof of the house.  They are primarily designed to burn gas logs only.   It should be noted that fireplaces are very inefficient for heating and are primarily for entertainment.  Even with the best fireplaces, less than 17% of the heat is radiated into the house; the rest is lost up the chimney.

    Things to look for in a masonry fireplace
    First, look at the fireplace as a whole.  If there is not a spark screen or glass door, do not use the fireplace.  Check to see if there are any damaged or cracked bricks in the firebox or hearth.  Look at the mortar joints.  Are they in good condition or are they deteriorating?  Operate the damper and make sure it is open before lighting a fire.  And finally, look at the top of the chimney for a spark screen and make sure the opening at the top is clear.

    Note: If the primary fuel burned in the fireplace is cordwood, have the chimney cleaned after every one and a half cords.  This will prevent a fire in the chimney from creosote build up.
    Safety Note: Never burn 2 x 4’s or other engineered wood products in your fireplace.  These products are chemically treated and may give off toxic fumes.

    Things to look for in a metal insert fireplace
    Metal fireplace inserts are very common in many new homes.  They are generally safe appliances to operate, however, like masonry fireplaces are for entertainment rather than home heating. First, look at the fireplace as a whole.  If there is not a spark screen or glass door or if you see any physical damage, do not use the fireplace.  Look at the top of the chimney for a spark screen and make sure that trees or bushes are clear of the opening.  If an electric igniter is installed, check that it is operational before turning on the gas.  Look at the gas burner for rust, physical damage or soot build up.  If while lighting the burner, an ignition whomp occurs (a slow ignition of the gas that makes a whomp sound) a problem may exist with the air gap setting in the burner assembly.  In some sealed units, after the burner is lit, the glass may fog up, however, the fogging should clear up in a few minutes.

    Note: Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for your particular unit when lighting. 

    If you have any questions or concerns, contact a professional…and ALWAYS watch children around fire!

  • Air Duct Inspection (using video camera)

    An Air Duct Inspection is a visual inspection of the inside of your air ducts.  For this type of inspection, the inspector uses a specially designed video camera which can be extended up to 100 feet inside the air ducts.  The inspector and client can then view the inside of the air ducts on a small TV monitor.  This type of Air Duct Inspection is helpful in identifying conditions that affect both your cooling system’s efficiency and your family’s health.  Some conditions that can be diagnosed by an Air Duct Inspection are:

    • Dirt or mold in the air ducts
    • Dead animals, trash or other obstructions in the air ducts
    • Cracks or other openings/penetrations in the air ducts

    Cracks in the air ducts are of particular concern in homes with a sub slab return system because these types of cracks can increase the potential for high levels of radon gas.

    The cost for this type of Air Duct Inspection is:

    • $300 by itself, or
    • $200 if you get an Air Duct Inspection in conjunction with a home inspection or other service

    For an additional fee, the client may purchase a copy of the Air Duct Inspection on a VHS video tape, or on a DVD.

    …Because an Ounce of Inspection is Worth a Pound of Repair!

    Valleywide Service, 7 Days a Week!

    Call Today
    (480) 503-2611
    TOLL FREE:  1-888-THE-WERX

    Or Schedule Online!

  • Sewer Inspection (using video camera)

    A Sewer Inspection is a visual inspection of the inside of the sewer pipe using a specially designed video camera.  The camera is on the end of a sewer "snake" which can be inserted up to 100 feet into the sewer pipe.  The inspector and the client can then view the inside of the sewer pipe on a small TV monitor.  There are several reasons one might need this type of Sewer Inspection:

    • to look for roots or other obstructions in the sewer piping
    • to identify broken or collapsed pipes
    • to verify the sewer is in and connected

    The cost for this type of Sewer Inspection is:

    • $300 by itself, or
    • $200 if you get a Sewer Inspection in conjunction with a home inspection or other service

    For an additional fee, the client may purchase a copy of the Sewer Inspection on a VHS video tape, or on a DVD.

    …Because an Ounce of Inspection is Worth a Pound of Repair!

    Valleywide Service, 7 Days a Week!

    Call Today
    (480) 503-2611
    TOLL FREE:  1-888-THE-WERX

    Or Schedule Online!

  • Pool & Spa Inspection

    More information on Pool & Spa Inspections is coming soon!

    Until then, please call for prices, scheduling and other details!

    (480) 503-2611
    or 1-888-THE-WERX

  • Roof Inspections

    More information on Roof Inspections is coming soon!

    Until then, please call for prices, scheduling and other details!

    (480) 503-2611
    or 1-888-THE-WERX