Category: Plumbing

Saving Hot Water Can Save You Money
According to SRP, up to 20% of their average customer’s annual energy usage goes towards producing hot water for every day tasks such as laundry, bathing, cooking and dishwashing. Employing a few simple tips can help you save money while also saving water and energy.
- Identify and repair all leaky water faucets. A slow drip can leak hundreds of gallons of water per year. If it’s a hot water leak, both the water and heating it will cost you money. Be sure to turn off faucets completely and teach your kids to properly turn off faucets.
- Set the thermostat on your water heater to 120 degrees. Lowering the temperature from 140 degrees to 120 degrees can save you up to $7 per month. Setting your water heater thermostat to 120 degrees can also reduce the risk of scalding accidents, which are especially a concern with young children and the elderly.
- If you participate in a peak-hour type program with your electric company, you should consider installing a timer on your water heater. Set the timer in a manner that will prevent the water heater from cycling on during the expensive, on-peak hours.
- Instead of taking baths, take short showers. A bath can use 15-25 gallons of water, while an average 5-minute shower uses less than 10 gallons.
- Consider installing low-flow faucets or aerators in your kitchen and/or bathroom. This can reduce consumption of hot water by up to 35%.
The above figures are based on a typical SRP customer with an electric water heater. However, saving hot water can also save you money if you have a gas water heater!

Source: SRP’s Contact, February 2006
March 1, 2006
Plumbing System Maintenance

It is important for every one in the family to become familiar with the different controls that operate your home’s plumbing system. In the event of a major plumbing leak, knowing the location and proper operation of these controls may save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars in damage to your home and personal property. The following are a few suggestions on how to prevent damage to these systems and reduce the costs involved should a leak occur.

1. Know the location of the main water valve.
This valve controls the supply of water to the entire house. It is usually located near the front of the house under the hose bib. This valve should be operated at least once a year to prevent the valve from getting clogged or stuck from mineral deposits. Mineral build up can make the valve difficult to turn and in severe cases, the handle can break off and/or leak. If this happens, the valve would need to be replaced. This situation can occur even in homes with water conditioning systems because this valve is located between the city/well and the water-conditioning unit.

2. Know the location of the isolation valves.
Isolation valves are located between the main valve and various plumbing fixtures. For example, under the kitchen sink there are two isolation valves; one for the hot and one for the cold water supply line to the faucet. These valves also need to be operated once a year to insure proper operation. Isolation valves are often low quality and can break easily, so care should be taken when opening or closing a valve that has not been operated in a several years.

3. Properly maintain drain pipes.
There are many ways to keep your drains open and working properly. The best way is to be conscious of what you put into your drain. Never pour hot grease or other things that tend to solidify at room temperature down your drain. Harsh chemical cleaners should be avoided because they are rarely effective in cleaning your pipes and pose a hazard if and when repairs are made. They can also damage the surface of many pipes and plumbing fixtures. A few pots of boiling water down the drain every month will help protect the environment and work just as well.

4. Replace washing machine hoses.
It is wise to replace the hoses to the washing machine every 3 to 5 years. This is an often neglected and weak link in the plumbing system. The constant pressure on these rubber hoses will eventually cause them to burst. If this should happen while at work or even worse when your out of town, the expense could be enormous. It only takes a few minutes and for under $15, is worth every penny.

If you have any questions or concerns, contact a professional.

January 25, 2006
Taking Care of Your Swimming Pool

The following is a short list of items that need regular attention to help keep your pool in good working order. Please remember that no two pools are alike and this list is not intended to address every problem that may arise. Swimming pools can present many different problems based on a number of factors. The age of the pool, water quality/chemistry and the age & type of the mechanical systems all play a roll in the frequency, type and expense of maintenance required. If you are unsure of anything, consult a pool service professional. The sooner you address a problem, the less it will cost to remedy.

If you are new to pool ownership, become familiar with your pool and its equipment. (Parts of a Pool Pump: 1. Filter, 2. Timer Control Box, 3. Primary Leaf Catcher for Pool Filter 4. Pressure Gauge & Air Bleeder Valve 5. Back Wash Valve 6. Primary Leaf Catcher for Jacuzzi).

In the event your pool has just been built, your pool contractor will show you all of the systems and how to operate them. However, if you have purchased a home with an existing pool, have the sellers explain the system and what they have been doing to maintain the pool. They may not have been doing it correctly, but it will give the service professional a place to start if anything is wrong and needs correction. Items you should be familiar with: Skimmers and Leaf Catchers, Timers and Valves, Heater(s), In-Pool Vacuum, Water Shutoff, Electrical Circuit Disconnects

Regular Maintenance:
Circulation: The circulation pump needs to be run every day. However, the length of time depends on the size of the pool, the type of filter, the time of year and the number of swimmers. The best way to determine how long to circulate the pool is to start at 3 or 4 hours a day and increase the time as needed until the water is clear.
Filter: The filter needs to be cleaned regularly to work properly. Cartridge filters can be cleaned by hand while sand and DE filters need to be backwashed. If your filter has a pressure gage, it should be monitored to determine when cleaning is necessary.
Skimmer and Leaf Catchers: Remove any debris from the skimmer and primary leaf catcher to maintain proper water flow through the filter. If air gets into the plumbing system when cleaning the primary leaf catcher, bleed air from the system through the air bleeder valve on top of the filter.
Water Level: The circulation pump and filter will not work properly if the correct water level is not maintained. If your pool has an automatic fill valve, it should be adjusted to the correct level (3 to 4 inches above the bottom of the tiles). If not, the water level will need to be maintained by hand.
Clean: The sides and bottom of the pool should be brushed several times per week to keep them free of dirt and debris. Remember that you cannot brush your pool too much!
Test: Test the PH level and chlorine every day until you get a correct reading for three days in a row. After that, test weekly at a minimum; more often if your pool gets heavy use.
Add Chemicals: Always read the labels on pool chemicals and store them accordingly. Mishandling can result in an explosion or other injury. Follow directions and recommendations on the label when adding chemicals to the pool.
Shock: The water needs to be shocked regularly to disinfect the water, kill algae, bacteria, other organisms and oxidize wastes. After shocking your pool, test the chemical levels and be sure that they have returned to normal before swimming.
Vacuum: Visually inspect the vacuum and hose for broken or worn out parts. Also, clean any debris that has gotten caught in the vacuum and observe that it is functioning properly.

Remember: If you have any questions, contact a professional.

And ALWAYS supervise children around water!!!

January 18, 2006
Help Your Water Heater Last for Years to Come

As with all household appliances, water heaters need regular maintenance. You should consult your owner’s manual for warnings and guidance before attempting service or repair. If you do not have a manual, you should be able to obtain one by calling or writing to the manufacturer. You may even be able to request one on the internet. Since our directions are very general, if any of the instructions in your Owner’s Manual or on the unit itself are different in any way than what you read here, follow your manufacturer’s guidance!

The frequency of servicing needed is dependent upon a number of things, such as: the age and type of the unit, the hardness of the water (the amount of minerals dissolved in the water) and whether or not you have a water softening system. At a minimum, check out your water heater at least once a year. Listed below are some things you can probably do yourself. However, if you feel uncertain about performing any of these steps yourself, we highly recommend that you contact a professional.

Pressure Relief Valve – Manually operate the valve to make sure it is not seized (see pictures below for location). Just move it up and down a few times and be sure it returns to its original position. Also, listen for the sound of running water and check to see that it is draining either to a floor drain, or ultimately to the outside of the building (by way of the Pressure Relief Drain Pipe).

Electric Water Heaters – (1. Electrical connection, 2. Pressure Relief Valve, 3. Drain Cock, 4. Water Inlet Valve, 5. Pressure Relief Drain Pipe) Prior to draining, the electricity needs to be shut off so the heating element does not burn out. Determine which circuit breaker controls the unit’s power and move it to the off position. Look at the electrical connection at the top of the water heater for loose or frayed wires. Remember, if the wires don’t look right, have an electrician check it out! Follow the steps below for draining and refilling tank.

Gas Water Heaters – (1. Pressure Relief Valve, 2. Pressure Relief Drain Pipe, 3. Pilot Light & Combustion Area, 4. Water Inlet Valve, 5. Flue, 6. Gas Control Valve,
7. Drain Cock) Prior to draining, clean the air passages to the burner. To do this, you must first shut off the gas by following the instructions on the unit. Then remove the access cover to the pilot light and burner area. Any dirt or debris should be removed. Also, observe the top of the water heater to be sure that the exhaust flue is secure and nothing is blocking airflow. Gas water heaters should be installed at least 18 inches above the ground. BE SURE NO FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCES ARE STORED IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE UNIT. Follow the steps below for draining and refilling tank.

Draining and Refilling the Water Heater Tank – It is important to drain the tank to remove any sediment and/or sludge from the bottom of the tank. After completing the steps above, turn off the water inlet valve (usually on the pipes at the top of the tank…REMEMBER – Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty!) Then connect a garden hose to the drain cock at the bottom of the tank. Turn the drain cock to the left and let the tank drain. Next, close the drain cock, disconnect the hose and turn the water inlet valve back on. When you no longer hear the water running, the tank is full. Now, turn the circuit breaker back on or for gas water heaters, light the pilot light by following the directions on the unit. The flame should be blue in color. If not, call the gas company. They should check it for free.

Be sure the temperature is set to avoid scalding, especially if there are children or elderly in the house!! Check your Owner’s Manual or look on the water heater for guidance.

These simple steps should help keep your water heater in good working order. However, if you are unsure of anything, it’s always best to have your unit inspected and/or serviced by a professional.

January 10, 2006
Sewer Inspection (using video camera)
A Sewer Inspection is a visual inspection of the inside of the sewer pipe using a specially designed video camera. The camera is on the end of a sewer "snake" which can be inserted up to 100 feet into the sewer pipe. The inspector and the client can then view the inside of the sewer pipe on a small TV monitor. There are several reasons one might need this type of Sewer Inspection:
- to look for roots or other obstructions in the sewer piping
- to identify broken or collapsed pipes
- to verify the sewer is in and connected
The cost for this type of Sewer Inspection is:
- $300 by itself, or
- $200 if you get a Sewer Inspection in conjunction with a home inspection or other service
For an additional fee, the client may purchase a copy of the Sewer Inspection on a VHS video tape, or on a DVD.

…Because an Ounce of Inspection is Worth a Pound of Repair!

Valleywide Service, 7 Days a Week!

Call Today
(480) 503-2611
TOLL FREE: 1-888-THE-WERX

Or Schedule Online!
January 4, 2006
Pool & Spa Inspection

More information on Pool & Spa Inspections is coming soon!

Until then, please call for prices, scheduling and other details!

(480) 503-2611
or 1-888-THE-WERX

January 4, 2006
Arizona Water Quality Testing
Even if you don’t drink your tap water, it’s important to know what’s in the water you use for cooking, bathing, washing clothes & dishes, etc. Arizona is known for it’s "hard water", but your water may contain more than just minerals. The only way to know for sure what’s in your water is to have it tested.

Homewerx Home Inspections offers the following Water Tests:

Water Test: Level I – $150*
This is a Bacteria Test which includes Total Coliform & E. Coli

Water Test: Level II – $249*
This is a Chemical/Bacteria/Lead Test which includes:
- Bacteria (Total Coliform & E. Coli), Lead, Nitrate, Nitrite, Total Nitrate/Nitrite, PH, Iron and Turbidity
Water Test: Level III – $299*
This is a Complete Water Analysis which includes:
- Alkalinity, Bacteria (Total Coliform & E. Coli), Lead, Nitrate, Nitrite, Total Nitrate/Nitrite, Clarity, Chlorine, Color, Copper, Hardness, PH (Acidity) and Iron
…Because an Ounce of Inspection is Worth a Pound of Repair!

Valleywide Service, 7 Days a Week!

Call Today
(480) 503-2611
TOLL FREE: 1-888-THE-WERX

Or Schedule Online!

* NOTE: Above prices are for Water Quality Tests performed in conjunction with a home inspection or other service. If Water Quality Test is done by itself, add $50.
January 4, 2006
What Does a Home Inspection Include?

We inspect in accordance with the Arizona BTR Standards and ASHI® Standards. A standard home inspection includes the following:
Air Conditioning
Built-in Appliances
Electrical System
Exterior of the Home
Heating System
Insulation & Ventilation
Interior of the Home
Plumbing System
Pool & Spa
Roofing Components
Structural Components

Termite Reports & Environmental Inspections are not included in a standard home inspection, but can be done for an additional fee.

January 3, 2006